If you’re considering a trip to Peru, Puno and Lake Titicaca should be high on your list of must-see destinations. Nestled in the Peruvian Andes, this region offers a unique blend of natural beauty, rich culture, and fascinating history. Whether you’re planning a trip to Puno and Lake Titicaca for the first time or are a seasoned traveler looking for new experiences, this guide will help you navigate your journey.
Puno is a vibrant city known as the folkloric capital of Peru. It’s located on the shores of Lake Titicaca, the world’s highest navigable lake at 12,507 feet above sea level. This area is not only a geographical wonder but also a cultural treasure, with traditions and customs that date back to pre-Inca times.
Lake Titicaca is not just any lake; it holds the title of the highest navigable lake in the world. This unique position contributes to its distinct ecosystem and weather patterns. The lake’s vast expanse spans over 3,200 square miles, straddling the borders of both Peru and Bolivia. Its altitude offers panoramic vistas that are unlike any other, providing breathtaking views that captivate visitors year-round.
The region surrounding Puno is steeped in history, with influences from various ancient civilizations, including the Incas and the Aymaras. The local traditions and folklore continue to thrive, with vibrant music, dance, and festivals playing a crucial role in the community’s cultural identity. These traditions are passed down through generations, providing a living history that visitors can experience firsthand.
Lake Titicaca’s unique ecosystem is home to a variety of flora and fauna, some of which are found nowhere else on earth. The lake supports over 530 aquatic species, including the Titicaca water frog and the flightless Titicaca grebe. The surrounding high-altitude plains and marshes also provide habitat for diverse bird species, making it a haven for birdwatchers and nature enthusiasts.
An immense region in terms of its history and the breadth of its magical landscape, the Titicaca Basin makes most people feel like they are on top of the world. The skies are vast, and the horizons bend away below you. The high altitude (3827m above sea level) means that recent arrivals from the coast should take it easy for a day or two, while those coming from Cusco will already have acclimatized.
The region’s scattered population descends from two ancient Andean ethnic groups: the Aymara and the Quechua. The Aymara’s Tiahuanaco culture predates the Quechua’s Inca civilization by over three hundred years.
This region is considered the original home for domesticating hardy plants, including the potato, tomato, and common pepper.
The first Spanish settlement at Puno sprang up around a silver mine discovered by the infamous Salcedo brothers in 1657, a camp that forged such a wild and violent reputation that the Lima viceroy moved in with soldiers to crush and finally execute the Salcedos before things got too out of hand. At the same time, in 1668, the ruler designated Puno as the region’s capital. From then on, it became the main port of Lake Titicaca and an important town on the silver trail from Potosí in Bolivia.
Late in the nineteenth century, the arrival of the railway brought another boost. Still, today, it’s a relatively poor, rather grubby town, even by Peruvian standards, and a place that has suffered badly from recent drought and an inability to manage its water resources.
On the edge of the town spreads the vast Lake Titicaca – some 8400km of shimmering blue water enclosed by white peaks. You find the unusual Uros floating islands in the lake, huge rafts built out of reeds, and home to a dwindling and much-abused Indian population.
More spectacular by far are two of the populated, fixed islands, Amantani and Taquile, where the traditional lifestyle gives visitors a genuine taste of pre-Conquest Andean Peru. Densely populated well before the arrival of the Incas, the lakeside Titicaca region is also home to the curious and ancient tower tombs known locally as chullpas: rings of tall, cylindrical stone burial chambers, often standing in battlement-like formations.
The valley down from the Abra La Raya pass (4312m), which divides the Titicaca Basin from Cusco, is known as the Corridor Quechua, referring to its linguistic predominance, and contains other lesser-visited treasures: around Ayaviri, which itself boasts impressive archaeological monuments and thermal baths, there is the forest of stones at Tinajani, plus, a further 12km away, a hillside at Tarukani where the Puyas Raimondi plants grow up to 12m high. Meanwhile, the stepped pyramid of Pukara is one of the region’s more ancient stone-built monuments, dating from 1000 BC.
The lakeside stretch between Puno and the Bolivian frontier at Desaguadero is known – also for linguistic reasons – as the Corridor Aymara. Unfortunately, this sector is full of fascinating but slowly decaying colonial relics, particularly the fine churches of Chucuito, Acora, Illave, Juli, Pomata, and Zepita.
The best time to visit Puno and Lake Titicaca is during the dry season, from May to October. During these months, the weather is more predictable, with clear skies and sunny days.
While the dry season offers the most stable weather, it’s important to note the temperature variations that occur due to the lake’s high altitude. Daytime temperatures can be pleasantly warm, but nights often bring a chill, with temperatures dropping significantly. Visitors should be prepared for this range and pack accordingly.
Visiting during the dry season allows you to partake in various outdoor activities, such as hiking, boating, and exploring the islands. Additionally, several cultural events and festivals take place during these months, providing a deeper insight into local traditions and offering a chance to engage with the community in celebration.
While the dry season is ideal for many, traveling during the off-peak months of November to April can offer a different experience. The wet season brings fewer crowds and lush landscapes, though travelers should be prepared for potential rain showers and cooler temperatures.
Puno is accessible by bus, train, and plane. The nearest airport is in Juliaca, about an hour from Puno. You can find flights from Lima or Cusco to Juliaca.
The flight to Juliaca is relatively short from major Peruvian cities, making it a convenient option for travelers. Once you land, the journey to Puno offers a scenic introduction to the region, with views of the expansive plains and mountainous terrain.
Taking the train from Cusco to Puno is an experience in itself. This journey offers stunning views of the Andean landscape, passing through remote villages and offering glimpses of local life. The train ride is leisurely, allowing passengers to soak in the natural beauty at every turn.
For those who prefer road travel, buses connect Puno with major cities like Cusco and Arequipa. This option can be more cost-effective and provides an opportunity to see more of the countryside. The routes are well-maintained, and the buses are comfortable, with options ranging from standard to luxury services.
Puno offers a range of accommodations, from budget hostels to luxury hotels. Staying near the lake provides easy access to tours and activities.
For those seeking comfort and style, Puno boasts several luxury hotels that offer stunning lake views, gourmet dining, and top-notch amenities. These accommodations often offer guided tours and activities, ensuring a seamless, memorable stay.
Travelers on a budget will find numerous hostels and guesthouses offering affordable rates without compromising comfort. These accommodations often provide communal spaces, perfect for meeting fellow travelers and sharing experiences.
For a truly immersive experience, consider staying in a homestay with a local family. This option allows you to experience daily life in Puno, learn about local customs, and enjoy homemade meals prepared with regional ingredients. Homestays offer a personal touch and a chance to form lasting connections.
The Uros Islands are a group of artificial islands made entirely of totora reeds. The Uros people have lived on these islands for centuries, maintaining their unique way of life.
Constructing and maintaining the Uros Islands is an intricate process passed down through generations. The islands are made by layering reeds, which must be constantly replenished to ensure stability. This practice reflects the community’s deep connection to their environment and resourcefulness in adapting to their surroundings.
A visit to the Uros Islands offers insight into the vibrant culture and traditions of the Uros people. From traditional dress to unique crafts, visitors can engage with the community and learn about their way of life. The Uros people are known for their warmth and hospitality, welcoming visitors with open arms.
Riding on a traditional reed boat is a highlight of any trip to the Uros Islands. These boats, crafted with care and precision, glide smoothly over the lake’s waters, offering a serene and memorable experience. The ride provides a unique perspective of the islands and the surrounding landscape.
Taquile Island is known for its stunning landscapes and vibrant textile art. The island’s inhabitants, known as Taquileños, are renowned for their weaving skills.
The Taquileños are master weavers, creating intricate textiles that are recognized by UNESCO. These textiles are not only beautiful but also carry cultural significance, often depicting stories and traditional symbols. Visitors can witness the weaving process firsthand and even purchase authentic souvenirs.
The island’s trails offer breathtaking views of Lake Titicaca and the surrounding mountains. Hiking these trails provides an opportunity to explore the island’s natural beauty and discover hidden spots with panoramic vistas. Along the way, visitors can encounter local flora and fauna, adding to the island’s allure.
The Taquileños have preserved their customs and way of life, offering a glimpse into a world where tradition takes precedence. Visitors are encouraged to respect local customs and engage with the community, whether by participating in traditional dances or enjoying a meal prepared with local ingredients.
Amantani Island is less visited than the Uros and Taquile Islands, offering a more authentic experience.
The island is home to two mountain peaks, Pachatata and Pachamama, each with ancient ruins. These ruins are shrouded in mystery and offer insight into the island’s historical significance. Visitors can explore these sites and ponder the ancient rituals and ceremonies that once took place here.
Staying with local families in homestays provides a unique opportunity to experience the island’s culture firsthand. This immersive experience allows visitors to connect with their hosts, learn about daily life, and enjoy traditional meals prepared with love and care.
Visitors to Amantani Island can partake in various community activities, from helping with farming tasks to participating in local celebrations. These activities provide a deeper understanding of the island’s way of life and create lasting memories.
Puno is famous for its vibrant folklore and lively festivals. The most notable is the Fiesta de la Candelaria, held in February.
This celebration honors the Virgin of Candelaria, the city’s patron saint. The festival is a grand display of devotion and cultural pride, featuring colorful parades, traditional music, and dance performances that capture the spirit of the region. Participants don elaborate costumes, and the streets come alive with energy and excitement.
Music and dance play a central role in Puno’s culture, with traditional instruments and rhythms that have been passed down through generations. Visitors can enjoy performances showcasing the region’s musical heritage, from the haunting sounds of the pan flute to the lively beats of traditional drums.
Puno is home to talented artisans who create beautiful crafts, from intricate textiles to pottery and jewelry. Visitors can meet these artisans, learn about their techniques, and purchase unique souvenirs that reflect the region’s cultural richness.
No visit to Puno would be complete without sampling the local cuisine. The region is known for its hearty dishes, such as chairo and trucha from Lake Titicaca.
Puno’s cuisine is a reflection of its geography and culture, featuring ingredients sourced from the lake and surrounding highlands. Quinoa, potatoes, and corn are staples, often incorporated into delicious and hearty dishes that provide warmth and comfort in the cool Andean climate.
Many restaurants in Puno offer stunning views of Lake Titicaca, allowing diners to enjoy their meals with a picturesque backdrop. These dining experiences provide an opportunity to savor the region’s flavors while taking in the beauty of the surroundings.
For those interested in culinary exploration, Puno offers cooking classes and culinary tours that provide insight into local cooking techniques and ingredients. Participants can learn to prepare traditional dishes and gain a deeper appreciation for the region’s culinary heritage.
Puno is located at a high altitude, which can affect some visitors. It’s important to acclimatize gradually to avoid altitude sickness.
Altitude sickness can manifest as headaches, nausea, and fatigue. Visitors should be aware of these symptoms and take appropriate measures, such as resting and staying hydrated. Drinking coca tea, a traditional remedy, can also help alleviate symptoms and aid in acclimatization.
Upon arrival, it’s advisable to take it easy and allow your body to adjust to the altitude. Avoid strenuous activities during the first day or two and give yourself time to acclimate. This approach ensures a more enjoyable and comfortable experience.
Before traveling, consult with healthcare providers, especially if you have pre-existing health conditions. They can provide guidance on managing altitude and recommend any necessary medications to ensure a safe and healthy trip.
Pack layers of clothing to adapt to the varying temperatures. Sunscreen, a hat, and sunglasses are essential for protection against the strong Andean sun.
Layering is key for adapting to the temperature changes throughout the day. Pack a mix of lightweight and warm clothing, including a good quality jacket for the cooler evenings. Don’t forget comfortable walking shoes, as you’ll likely be exploring on foot.
The high altitude means stronger sun exposure, so protect yourself with sunscreen, a wide-brimmed hat, and UV-protective sunglasses. Staying hydrated is also crucial, so carry a reusable water bottle and drink plenty of fluids throughout the day.
Consider packing a portable charger for your devices and a small daypack for excursions. A travel guidebook or language app can help navigate and communicate with locals.
Puno is generally a safe destination, but it’s wise to take standard precautions.
While Puno is considered safe, visitors should remain vigilant, especially in crowded areas. Keep an eye on your belongings, avoid displaying valuables, and stay aware of your surroundings to ensure a safe experience.
It’s advisable to have travel insurance that covers health and emergencies, providing peace of mind during your trip. Familiarize yourself with the location of local medical facilities and carry any necessary medications with you.
Understanding and respecting local customs is essential for a positive experience. Learn basic phrases in the local language, dress modestly, and show respect for cultural practices and traditions.
With a dry, chilly climate—temperatures frequently fall below freezing on the winter nights of July and August—PUNO is just a crossroads for most travelers en route between Cusco and Bolivia or Chile.
In some ways, this is fair, for it’s a breathless place with a burning daytime sun in stark contrast to snowy evenings. Yet the town is rich in living tradition and its fascinating pre-Columbian history.
The Pukara culture emerged here some 3000 years ago, leaving behind stone pyramids and carved standing stones, contemporary with those of Chavín, 1600km further north but still high up in the Andes.
The better-known Tiahuanaco culture dominated the Titicaca basin between 800 and 1200 AD, leaving behind the temple complex of the same name, just over the border in Bolivia, along with widespread cultural and religious influence.
The Incas conquered the settlement in the fifteenth century. When the Spanish arrived a little more than one hundred years later, they soon discovered its wealth – tribute-based agriculture and mineral exploitation based on a unique form of slave labor.
Even today, Puno’s port is a vital staging point for exploring the northern end of Lake Titicaca, with its floating islands and beautiful island communities just a few hours away by boat.
Famed as the folklore capital of Peru, Puno is renowned throughout the Andes for its music and dance. The best time to experience this wealth of traditional cultural expression is during the first two weeks of February for the Fiesta de la Candelaria. It is an excellent folk dance, featuring incredible dancers in devil masks.
The festival climaxes on the second Sunday of February. If you’re in Puno, it’s a good idea to book hotels in advance (prices can double).
The Festival de Tinajani, based around June 27, is set in the bleak altiplano against a substantial wind-eroded rock in the Canyon of Tinajani off the beaten trail. It’s well worth checking out for its raw Andean music and dance, plus its large sound systems; ask at the tourist offices in Puno or Cusco for details.
Just as spectacular, the Semana Jubilar (Jubilee Festival) occurs in the first week of November, partly on the Isla Esteves. It celebrates the Spanish founding of the city, and the legend of the Incas’ origins is from Lake Titicaca.
Even if you miss the festivals, you can find a group of musicians playing brilliant and highly evocative music somewhere in the labyrinthine town center on most nights of the year.
Puno is one of the few Peruvian towns where motorized traffic respects pedestrians. Busy as it is, there is less of a manic rush here than in most coastal or mountain cities.
It lacks the colonial style of Cusco or the bright glamour of Arequipa’s Sillar stone architecture. Still, it’s a friendly place where sloping corrugated iron roofs reflect the heavy rains between November and February.
Puno has three main points of reference: the spacious Plaza de Armas, the train station several blocks north, and the vast, strung-out area of old, semi-abandoned docks at the ever-shifting Titicaca lakeside port. It looks impressive, but the natural town-based attractions are few and quickly visited in the seventeenth century.
The cathedral on the Plaza de Armas (daily 7 am-noon and 3–6 pm; free) is surprisingly large, with an exquisite Baroque facade and, unusually for Peru, a straightforward, humble interior, in line with the local Aymara Indians’ austere attitude to religion.
Opposite its north face, the Museo Municipal Dreyer, Conde de Lemos 289 (Mon-Sat 8 am–2 pm; $3.50), contains a unique collection of archaeological pieces, including ceramics, textiles, and stone sculptures, mostly removed from some of the region’s chullpas.
One block to the south, the nearby Iglesia San Antonio on Jirón Ayacucho is smaller and colorfully lit by ten stained-glass circular windows. The church’s complex iconography, set into six wooden wall niches, is highly evocative of the region’s mixed Catholic and Indian beliefs.
High up, overlooking the town and Plaza de Armas, the Huajsapata Park sits on a prominent hill. It’s a short but steep climb: up Jirón Deustua, turn right into Jirón Llave, then left up Jirón Bolognesi, and finally left again up the Pasaje Contique steps.
Often crowded with cuddling couples and young children playing on the natural rockslides, Huajsapata offers sensational views across the bustle of Puno to the serene blue of Titicaca and its unique skyline.
At the same time, the pointing finger on the giant white statue of Manco Capac reaches out towards the lake. In the northern section of town, at the end of the pedestrianized Jirón Lima, you’ll find a busy little plaza called Parque Pino, dominated in equal parts by the startlingly blue Church of San Juan and the ragged, insistent shoeshine boys.
Two blocks east from here, towards the lake, you find the old central market, small and dirty, with rats and dogs competing for scraps and beaming Indian women selling an incredible variety of fruits and vegetables. Head down to Avenida Los Incas, initially between the old rail tracks, to a more substantial street market, whose liveliest day is Saturday—moored either in the port or sometimes at the Isla Esteves by the Posada del Inca Hotel.
The nineteenth-century British-built steamship, the Yavari (usually Wed-Sun 8 am–5 pm; for guided tours, call T051/369329; donation), provides a fascinating insight into marine life on Lake Titicaca over a hundred years ago and the military and entrepreneurial mindset of Peru in those days.
Delivered by boat from England to Arica on the coast, it was designed by James Watt. From Arica, it was brought 560km by mule in over 1300 pieces. It started as a Peruvian navy gunship with bulletproof windows, but it delivered the mail around Lake Titicaca. At times, it has used just llama dung as fuel.
Scattered all around Lake Titicaca, you’ll find chullpas, gargantuan white stone towers up to 10m in height, where the ancient Colla tribe, who dominated the region before the Incas, buried their dead. Some of the most spectacular are at SILLUSTANI, set on a tiny peninsula in Lake Umayo overlooking Titicaca, 30km northwest of Puno.
This ancient temple/cemetery consists of a ring of stones over five hundred years old. Some have been tumbled by earthquakes or, more recently, by tomb robbers intent on stealing the rich goods (ceramics, jewelry, and a few weapons) buried with influential mummies. Two styles predominate at this site: the honeycomb chullpas and those whose superb stonework was influenced by the Inca Empire’s advance.
The former is set aside from the rest and characterized by large stone slabs around a central core; some are carved, but most are plastered with white mud and small stones. The latter, Inca-type stonework is more complicated, and, in some cases, you can see the elaborate corner jointing typical of Cusco masonry.
LAKE TITICACA is the world’s largest high-altitude body of water, at 284m deep, an undeniably calming and majestic sight. More than 3200 square miles (or 8300 square kilometers) in area, fifteen times the size of Lake Geneva in Switzerland and higher and slightly more immense than Lake Tahoe in the U.S.
Usually peaceful and mirror-like, the lake reflects the enormous sky on itself. All along the horizon, the green Andean mountains can also be seen rising their ancient backs and heads towards the sun; on the Bolivian side, it’s sometimes possible to make out the icecaps of the Cordillera Real.
A National Reserve since 1978, the lake supports over 60 bird species, 14 native fish species, and 18 amphibian species. It’s often seen as three separate regions: Lago Mayor, the principal, deep part of the lake; Wiñaymarka, the area incorporating various archipelagos, including Peruvian and Bolivian Titicaca; and the Golfo de Puno, essentially the bay encompassed by the peninsulas of Capachica and Chucuito.
The villages that line its shores depend mainly on livestock grazing for their livelihoods, since the altitude limits the growth potential of most crops.
Titicaca is where the Quechua Indian language and people merge with the more southerly Aymaras, and where the curious Inca-built Chullpa burial tombs of Sillustani are found near the lake’s edge.
The artificial Uros Floating Islands have been inhabited since their construction centuries ago by the Uros Indians, who were retreating from more powerful neighbors, such as the Incas.
Floating platform islands, weird to walk over and even stranger to live on, are now a significant tourist attraction. More solid and self-determined are the communities that live on the fixed islands of Taquile and Amantani, often described as
the closest one can get to heaven by the few travelers who make it out this far into the lake. There are, in fact, more than seventy islands in the lake, the largest and most sacred being the Isla del Sol, an ancient Inca temple site on the Bolivian side of the border that divides the lake’s southern shore.
Titicaca is an Aymara word meaning “Puma’s Rock,” which refers to an unusual boulder on the Island of the Sun. The island is best visited from Copacabana in Bolivia, or trips can be arranged by catamaran through one of the tour companies in Puno.
Not surprisingly, fish remain an essential part of the diet for both the Titicaca inhabitants and the ibis and flamingoes, which can be seen along the pre-Inca terraced shorelines. The most common fish is a small piranha-like specimen called Carachi.
After swimming up the rivers, trout arrived in the lake during the first or second decade of the twentieth century. Pejerey (kingfish) established itself only thirty years ago, but has been so successful that relatively few trout are left. Pejerey fishing is an option for tourists.
Although there are about 48 of these islands, most guided tours limit themselves to the largest, Huacavacani, where several Andean families live alongside a floating Seventh-day Adventist missionary school. The islands are made from layer upon layer of totora reeds.
The dominant plant in the shallows of Titicaca serves as a food source (the juicy inner bits near the roots) for the people and is the primary material for roofing, walling, and fishing rafts. During the rainy months of November to February, it’s not unusual for some islands to move about the lake’s surface.
The easiest way to the islands is a two—to—three—hour trip (from around $75.50) with one of the tour agencies in Puno. Alternatively, you can go independently with the skipper of one of the many launches that leave from the port in Puno every thirty minutes (always check with the captain when they plan to depart the islands).
Only 600 Uros Indians live on the islands these days, and most of them are a more recent mix of Quechua and Aymara blood. Many of you may meet live on the mainland, traveling only to sell their wares to tourists; most are a mixture of the original Uros and the more prominent Aymara tribe. When the Incas controlled the region, they considered the Uros so poor – almost subhuman – that the only tribute required of them was a section of hollow cane filled with lice.
Life on the islands has undoubtedly never been easy: inhabitants must go some distance to find fresh water. The bottoms of the reed islands rot so rapidly that new matting has to be constantly added above. Islands last about 12 to 15 years, and it takes 2 months of collective work to start a new one.
Two genuine, non-floating islands in Titicaca, Taquile and Amantani, are peaceful places that see fewer tourists. They are around 25–30km across the water from Puno, just beyond the outer edge of the Gulf of Chucuito. Amantani is the least visited of the two, has fewer facilities, and costs slightly more to reach by boat.
Daily boats for Taquile leave Puno at 8 am, returning by around 5.30 or 6 pm. They usually go to Amantani at 9 am and return between 4 and 4.30 pm. As usual, check with the captain when they plan to depart the islands.
You can go on an organized trip with one of the tour companies, but the agencies use the same boats and charge at least twice the going rate. The sun’s rays reflected off the lake can burn even well-tanned skin, so it’s good to protect your head and shoulders during this voyage.
The launches tend to be aging wooden boats with engines from old North American cars, like the 1962 Dodge, which belongs to one of the island captains. Most boats return after lunch the same day, but since this doesn’t give you enough time to look around, many visitors prefer to stay a night or two in bed and breakfast accommodation (from about $25) in islanders’ homes.
The only way to guarantee a place to stay is to book in advance through one of Puno’s tour agencies; if you arrive on spec, you could ask the relevant island authorities or talk to the boat’s captain, and you may be lucky, but don’t bank on it. Sleeping bags and toilet paper are recommended, and the host islanders appreciate fresh fruit and vegetables.
The island of TAQUILE has been inhabited for over 10,000 years, with agriculture introduced about 4000 BC. Some three thousand years ago, the Pukara culture settled there and built the first stone terraces. The Aymara-speaking Tiahuanaco culture dominated it until the thirteenth century, when the Incas conquered it and introduced the Quechua language. In 1580, the island was bought by Pedro Gonzalez de Taquile and came under Spanish influence.
During the 1930s, it was a haven or prison for troublesome characters like former president Sanchez Cerro. It wasn’t until 1937 that the residents—the local descendants of the original Indians—regained legal ownership by repurchasing it.
The Comunidad Campesina de Taquile has at least eight operation boats and sells tickets for rides to the island directly from the port in Puno (daily, from 7 am). However, most passengers are locals, and tourists are very welcome. Approaching Taquile, perhaps the most attractive island, measuring 1km by 7km, it looks like a substantial ribbed whale, large and bulbous to the east, tapering its western tail end.
Significant amounts of ancient terracing produce the island’s horizontal striations along Taquile’s steep-sided shores. Such terraces are at an even greater premium here in the middle of the lake, where soil erosion would otherwise slowly kill the island’s largely self-sufficient agricultural economy, of which potatoes, corn, broad beans, and the hardy quinoa are the main crops.
Taquile could become similar to the main floating island, lacking good soil and relying almost exclusively on tourism for its income.
The island has two main ports: Puerto Chilcano Doc (on the west or Puno side of the island) and El Otro Puerto (on the north side, used chiefly by boats of tour agents because it offers a more straightforward and equally panoramic access climb).
Arriving via Puerto Chilcano Doc, one reaches the island’s central heart by climbing some 525 grueling steps up a steep hill from the small stone harbor; this can easily take an hour of slow walking. When you’ve recovered your breath, you will eventually appreciate the spectacular view of the southeast of the island, where you can see the hilltop ruins of Uray Kari, built of stone in the Tiahuanaco era around 800 A.D.
Looking to the west, you may glimpse the more extensive, slightly higher ruins of Hanan Kari. Upon climbing the stairs, you’ll be met by a committee of locals who delegate various native families to look after particular travelers.
There are around thirty indigenous Taquileños tourist guides, many of whom now speak English, so booking a visit to Taquile via a travel agent in Puno is not essential. The quality can be just as good or even better by arranging a visit to Taquile directly with the islanders: first, take the boat trip from the port, and upon arrival, you will have accommodation and, if required, guide services.
This way, you can help maintain the economic benefit of tourism in Taquile. There is no grid-connected electricity on the island, though there is a solar-powered community loudspeaker and a growing number of individual houses with solar lighting; it’s a good idea to take a flashlight, matches, and candles.
There are no hotels, though a few small stores sell souvenirs, mostly weavings. There are also a few places to eat around the small plaza, notably the Restaurant San Santiago (7 am–7 pm), where fish and chips and honey pancakes are the specialties.
Although they grow abundant maize, potatoes, wheat, and barley, most of Taquile’s population of 1200 people are also weavers and knitters of fine alpaca wool, renowned for their excellent cloth. You can still watch the locals drop-spin, a common form of hand-spinning that produces an ideal thread for their particular fabric. The men sport black woolen trousers fastened with elaborate waistbands woven in pink, red, and green.
The women wear beautiful black headscarves, sweaters, dark shawls, and up to eight skirts at the same time, trimmed usually with shocking pink or bright-red tassels and fringes.
You can tell if a man is married or single by the color of his woolen hat or Chullo: the former is all red, and the latter is white; single men usually weave their own Chullo. Community authorities or officials wear black sombreros on top of their red Chullos and carry office staff.
Like nearby Taquile, AMANTANI, a basketweaving island and the largest on the lake, has retained some degree of cultural isolation and autonomous control over the tourist trade. Of course, tourism has affected the local population, so it’s not uncommon to be offered drinks and then charged later, or for the children to sing you songs without being asked, expecting to be paid.
The ancient agricultural terraces are excellently maintained, and traditional stone masonry is still practiced, as are the old Inca systems of agriculture, labor, and ritual trade. The islanders eat mainly vegetables, with meat and fruit rare commodities, and the women dress in colorful, distinctly woven clothing.
Two small hills dominate the island: the Temple of Pachamama (Mother Earth) and the Temple of Pachatata (Father Earth). Around February 20, the islanders celebrate their main festival, with half the 5000-strong population gathering at one hill and the other half at the other. Following ancient ceremonies, the two halves celebrate their origins with traditional, colorful music and dance.
The only available accommodation is staying in an islander’s house, although plans are in place to build a hostel. There are no restaurants, but you can buy basic supplies at the artesian trading post in the island’s heart.
There’s no particular reason to stop in JULIACA; in many ways, it’s an uninspiring and geographically very flat settlement, but at the same time, it’s hard to avoid. This beauty is the first town out of Puno towards Cusco, less than an hour away across a grassy pampa.
The wild, flat, and relatively barren terrain here makes it easy to imagine a straggling column of Spanish cavalry and foot soldiers followed by a thousand Inca warriors—Alberto’s fated expedition to Chile in the 1530s. Today, much as it always was, the plain is scattered with tiny isolated communities, many with conical kilns, self-sufficient even down to kitchenware.
If you fly to Titicaca, you’ll arrive at Juliaca Airport, even if Puno is your destination. You must pass through Juliaca en route if you’re going by road or rail to Cusco from Puno or anywhere along Lake Titicaca. It’s less than half an hour by colectivos or taxi from Puno, inland from the lakeside, and not an inviting town, looking like a giant but down-at-heel, desert-bound work camp.
However, some good artisan stalls and shops on the Plaza Bolognesi offer excellent woolen goods that can be purchased extremely cheaply, especially at the Monday market. The daily market around the station is worth browsing, selling almost everything – from stuffed iguanas to second-hand bikes.
The most popular routes to Bolivia involve overland road travel, crossing the frontier either at Yunguyo or Desaguadero. En route to either, you’ll pass by some of Titicaca’s more interesting colonial settlements, each with its own style of architecture.
CHUCUITO, 20 km south of Puno, is dwarfed by its extensive hillside terracing and the huge igneous boulders poised behind the brick-and-adobe houses. Chucuito was once a colonial town, and its central plaza retains the pillory (Picota) where the severed heads of executed criminals were displayed.
Close to this, a sundial was erected in 1831 to help the local Aymara people regulate a 8 am to 5 pm workday. The base is made from the Inca Templo de Fertilidad stones, located behind the Hotel Taypikala, which remains Chucuito’s most significant treasure.
Inside the temple’s main stone walls are around a hundred stone phalluses, arranged in rows within the temple space, resembling seats in a theatre.
Some of the larger ones may have had particular ritual significance, and locals say that women who have difficulty getting pregnant still come here to pray for help on the giant phalluses. Also, the Iglesia Santo Domingo, constructed in 1780, is on the plaza and displays a feeble image of a puma.
Yunguyo–Copacabana. The Yunguyo-Copacabana crossing is the most enjoyable route into Bolivia unless you intend to stay overnight in Copacabana (or take the 3-hour Puno-Copacabana minibus). You’ll need to set out quite early from Puno; the actual border (8 am–6 pm) is a two-kilometer walk from Yunguyo, although taxis are usually available. The Bolivian passport control, where there’s usually a bus for the 10 km to Copacabana, is a few hundred meters from the Peruvian border post.
The best Hotel in Yunguyo is the Hostal Residencial Isabel, San Francisco 110 (T014/856084), which has hot water but only communal bathrooms. You can change money at the Banco de la Nación at Triunfo 219 and 28 de Julio. Still, several Casas de Cambio and street Cambistas nearby offer better rates and deals in various currencies. Still, it would be best to change only enough to get to La Paz, as the rate is poor.
Several bus companies run services from Puno over these routes: Empresa Los Angeles has twice-weekly buses to Desaguadero ($6; 3hr); Tour Peru runs daily to Copacabana ($8; also, 3hr) and La Paz ($17; 7hr); Altiplano buses also go most days to La Paz ($15); Collector runs to La Paz via Copacabana daily for around $13; and San Pedro Express runs daily to Yunguyo ($13; 2–3hr), Desaguadero ($7.50; 3hr) and Copacabana ($9; 3hr). From Yunguyo, some buses connect with a minibus service to Copacabana, then a Bolivian bus to La Paz.
Copacabana’s cheap afternoon bus service to La Paz takes you through some of the basin’s most exciting scenery. At Tiquina, you briefly leave the bus to cross the lake on a passenger ferry, the bus rejoining you on the other side. Once across the lake, it’s a four- to five-hour haul to La Paz.
Very little traffic now uses the Desaguadero Crossing over the Peru–Bolivia border; it’s less attractive than going via Yunguyo but has the advantage of passing the ruined temple complex of Tiahuanaco in Bolivia.
If you do want to travel this route, take one of the early morning colectivos (6–9 am) from Jr Tacna in Puno to Desaguadero ($7; 3–4 hours); you’ll need to get a stamp in your passport from the Peruvian control by the market and the Bolivian one just across the bridge. If you arrive here by bus, it’s a short walk across the border, and you can catch an Ingravi bus to La Paz roughly every hour ($7; 4–5hr), which goes via Tiahuanaco.
Zonnepoort
Money can be changed on the bridge approach, but the rates are poor, so purchase only as much as you’ll need to get to La Paz. It’s not a very friendly town. There’s a conspicuous amount of rubbish on some streets, and a few hotels aren’t immaculate; the Hostal San Carlos is probably the best, offering a hot shower. Similarly, I can recommend a few restaurants, but the Pollería El Rico Riko, close to the border crossing, is not bad.
The procedure is just as straightforward for anyone coming into Peru from Bolivia. One difference is that a customs and passport check occurs before the exit barrier when leaving Copacabana. Now and again, Bolivian customs officials take a heavy-handed approach and thoroughly search all luggage.
About two-thirds of the way between Puno and Juli, you pass through the village of ILAVE, where a significant side road heads off directly down to the coast for Tacna (320 km) and Moquegua (231 km). Ilave is quite an important market town, featuring a large Sunday market that sells colorful clothing and coca leaves, and it hosts a few shamanic fortune-tellers.
The city also has a surprisingly large and modern Terminal Terrestre, where all the buses from Puno stop and where it’s possible to catch services to Tacna and Moquegua on the coast. A large Plaza de Armas hosts a statue of Coronel Francisco Bolognesi, hero of the battles of Arica between Peru and Chile.
At the same time, half a block to the south, the ancient and crumbling Iglesia de San Miguel has an impressive dome and belfry. The basic Hostal Grau is bearable at Jr. Dos de Mayo 337 plaza if you’re looking for a place to stay. Try the Pollería Ricos Pollo, Jr Andino 307, located towards the market from the plaza.
After crossing the bridge over the Río Ilave, the road cuts 60km across the plain towards Juli, passing by some unusual rock formations scattered across the altiplano of the Titicaca basin, many of which have ritual significance for the local Aymara population.
The most important of these is the Gateway of Amaru Muru. A doorway-like alcove carved into the rock is said by indigenous mystics to serve as a dimensional link to the ancestors. This belief is shared by new agers, who view it as the Andean “stargate,” a kind of link to non-earthly beings and other worlds.
A few kilometers from the Amaru Muru rock is the relatively large town of JULI, now bypassed by a new road but nestling attractively between gigantic round-topped and terraced hills. Juli is also known as Pequeña Roma (Little Rome) because of the seven prominent mountains surrounding it, each of which holds spiritual significance for the indigenous inhabitants, particularly in earth magic, healing, and fertility.
Perhaps because of this, the Jesuits chose Juli as the site for a significant mission training center, which prepared missionaries for trips to the remote regions of Bolivia and Paraguay.
The concept they developed, a form of community evangelization, was at least partly inspired by the Inca organizational system and was highly influential throughout the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. The Jesuits’ political and religious power is reflected in the almost surreal extravagance of the church architecture.
Fronting the sizeable open plaza is the stone-built parish church of San Pedro, marked by its intricately carved Plateresque side altars. Constructed in 1560, it has an impressive dome and a cool, serene interior awash with gold leaf, home to many superb examples of Cuzqueña school artwork. Behind the altar, there’s a wealth of silver and gold, the woodwork dripping with seashells, fruits, and angels.
In front of this church, you’ll often see local shamanic fortune-tellers. Across the plaza from here is the amazing-looking Casa Zavala (House of the Inquisition), with its thatched roof and fantastically carved double doors, which is also known as el carcel (“the Prison”). Juli’s numerous other churches display superb examples of Indian influence, mainly the vast brick and adobe Iglesia San Juan (Mon-Sat 9 am–5 pm), with its mestizo stonework on some doors and windows.
This cold and musty church, founded in 1775, has a surreal interior, partly due to the play of light through its few high windows. It is now an excellent religious art and architecture museum that handsomely rewards interested visitors. Of the few hostels here, try the basic Hostal Treboles on the central plaza or the Hostal Municipal on the left as you enter the town from Puno Road.
Twenty kilometers to the side lies the historic town of POMATA, featuring the pink granite church of Santiago Apóstol, built in 1763 in a prominent location overlooking the lake. Outside the church is a circular stone construction known as La Glorieta. Although it’s crumbling today, it’s still the site where local authorities meet for ceremonial purposes.
Pomata’s name is derived from the Aymara word for “Puma.” You’ll see the puma symbol all over the fountain in the Plaza de Armas and on the outside of the church. If you’re in the area in October, try to get to Pomata for the Fiesta de la Virgen de Rosaria on the first Sunday of the month. This splendid celebration includes processions, music, folk dancing, and the usual drinking and feasting.
Visiting Puno and Lake Titicaca is a journey into the heart of Andean culture and natural beauty. From the floating islands to the vibrant city of Puno, there’s something for every traveler to discover. With proper planning and an open mind, your trip to Puno and Lake Titicaca can be an unforgettable adventure that enriches your understanding of this remarkable region.
Whether you’re exploring ancient ruins, enjoying local cuisine, or partaking in cultural festivals, Puno and Lake Titicaca offer a unique glimpse into the rich tapestry of Peru’s heritage.
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