Information for Cusco, Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu

CUSCO

UNESCO declared it a World Heritage Site in 1983. It is the oldest inhabited city on the continent, so it is not surprising that there is much to see and do. It is a city full of history and the gateway to one of the most prominent pre-Columbian cultures. I loved it.

WHAT TO SEE IN CUSCO

Cusco is a city for walking and walking a bit more. To me, what I liked the most was:

1. * Plaza de Armas and surroundings: In Inca times, it was called Huacaypata (a meeting place in Quechua). It was where Francisco Pizarro proclaimed the conquest of Cusco and where Tupac Amaru II was executed. The opposite is the Cathedral, which was built on the site of the palace of the Inca Wiracocha. Inside are paintings of the Cusco school (one especially stands out: “The Last Supper,” Peruvian version: with a cuy) and the Cristo mestiza version: brown and an Indigenous skirt. You can enter for free during Mass from 6 to 9 am (then costs S/25). There is also the Church of the Company of Jesus, built in 1571 on the palace of the Inca Huayna Capac.

On Av del Sol, a plaque on the floor shows the divisions of the Inca empire’s four suyos (provinces)

* San Blas: it is a bohemian neighborhood and artisan; you can find everything, but it is much quieter than the center, with cobbled streets, narrow and steep, and lovely views of the city (from the square or some bars, for example). An air more. Bohemian =)

* San Cristobal: It is a church (which implies it is upon a hill from Plaza de Armas), but the view from there is beautiful, especially at sunset when the sky turns blue and the little lights begin to catch.

* Central Market San Pedro: If they come from Bolivia or already know what the markets are, not so much attention, but I have a fascination for them, so I have gone to a thousand. Here, you can try typical dishes, buy food, and see Andean products to purchase souvenirs.

* Qoricancha: It was the temple to the sun, and the chronicles tell that its walls were covered with gold sheets. In 1534, the church and the Dominican convent were built. Price: S / 10 adults, S / 5 students (S / 15 and S / 7 if you also visit the Convent of Santa Catalina, an area where the best women lived in the Inca era).

* Saqsaywaman, Q’enqo, Puca Pucara, and Tambomachay (city tour): tourism agencies sell them to these four (along with Koricancha, optional entry) in the same package, called city tour, for S / 25. Saqsaywamán was a temple dedicated to Andean cosmology. Every June 24, the Inti Raymi, or Festival of the Sun, is celebrated (quite a tourist destination). The size of its stones is enormous, and I think it was the place that made me think about how these people worked. Q’enqo, on the other hand, was a place of sacrifice; Puca Pucara was an administrative and customs center, while Tambomachay was a place of gathering, sheltering, and bathing. To take this tour alone, take a bus or minibus to Pisaq and ask to be dropped off at Tambomachay. From there, it is 11km downhill back to Cusco. But Saqsaywaman is the only one worth it, and it is easy to get from Plaza de Armas (in 20 minutes).

At the beginning of the century, Martin Chambi, one of the best Peruvian photographers, portrayed Cusco.

PRICES

The change on 10/18 is 1 USD = 3.25 soles (S/). Many places accept debit cards.

 * Accommodation

• Dorm, from S / 10 the bed (you have to look for, there are many prices)
• Double with private bathroom: in a hotel, 40USD
• CouchSurfing works, although it is not as easy as on other sites.

 * Food

At local markets and restaurants, you can get lunch for S/3 or 4 (be it chicken, meat, or fish). The tourist menus are around S / 15, although there are S / 8 and S / 25 (with entrance, second, dessert, and drink).

Some top-rated foods on these sides are the chicharrón (fried pork), the dry meat or chicken, the cuy baked, the alpaca in different forms, the potatoes, the huancahína (a sauce based on cheese, cookies, and chili), The chili pepper, the stuffed rocoto (a hot pepper stuffed with vegetables, fried), the cause and some others, etc. Many vegetarian (and vegan) restaurants offer good food at reasonable prices.

TOURIST TICKET

The tourist ticket is for access to several museums and archaeological sites in Cusco and its surroundings. The issue is that if you buy it whole, it lasts ten days, while the circuits last only 1 or 2 days each. If one wants to do things independently, it doesn’t give you time (for example, the circuit ticket for the Sacred Valley is valid for 2 days, but I made one city per day, not correlatives, so, after all, you almost have to buy it whole). For more information, you can check their page. It does buy at Cosituc (Av. Del Sol 103) or archaeological sites.

There are places, such as Chinchero and Moray, that, although marked on the ticket, I was not asked about.

IMPORTANT: MORE DATA

* The height! Cusco is at 3400 msnm, so it is very likely to cause altitude sickness when arriving from a low place. In addition, because it is a city full of ups and downs, it takes time to acclimatize, even if you are in good physical condition. Usually, it takes 1 or 2 days to get used to the height, and it is advisable to eat light, avoid alcohol, and drink plenty of water. I never needed them, but they say that the sorochi pill (for altitude sickness) is very effective. They are available at any pharmacy for S/ 18 or S/19. The coca mate (i.e., tea) also helps with headaches and tummy, which can give height.

* Climate (or when to go): Cusco is cold and dry, the same as before. In the rainy season, the weather goes crazy, and it can happen from dawn to rain, to get out of the sun and back to cloudy over at night. February is the rainiest month (so much so that they closed the Inca Trail). The cold is intense from May to August (high season), even with frost at night, but the days are heavenly. It is best to dress in layers (t-shirt, sweater, and windbreaker) since it is generally warmer at noon, and at night, it always feels refreshing (even in polar regions in summer).

SURROUNDINGS OF CUSCO: Sacred Valley

* Pisaq: It is a beautiful town, with narrow streets and motorbikes circulating, juggling not to get into the middle channel of each road. It is well known for its market, which is more memorable on Sundays. However, it adds charm to the square and covers the whole view. On Sundays, a mass is also held in Quechua at 11 a.m.

* Chinchero: Its market is much more authentic than Pisaq’s. People sell on the floor, the galleries cover the roofs, and women wear traditional costumes and weave their yarn; it is much more formal and local. People buy fruits and vegetables, and there are few tourists. Further up, a church of Tupac Inca Yupanqui’s real estate remains.

* Urubamba: I think the town with less charm has much more city-style and little Inca structure.

* Ollantaytambo: A place that you will love. The only Inca town preserved almost intact to walk its alleyways without the sidewalk to see its houses still inhabited. The morning light shining among the cobblestones is beautiful—the most frequent and cheap trains (because they are still expensive) to Aguas Calientes. There is an archaeological zone on the mountainside, with cultivation, religious, administrative, and military areas.

Take a minibus in Pavitos or Grau (Cusco). The ticket price varies by vehicle and destination (between S/4 and S/10, 40 minutes).

* Maras and Moray: Moray was an area of agricultural experimentation where four concentric terraces can be observed. In the salt pans of Maras, more than 400 wells have been extracting salt since Inca times.

South Valley

This tour features Tipón, Pikillacta, and Andahuaylillas. Each one corresponds to a different period: Tipón is a center of Inca hydraulic experimentation, Pikillacta is a pre-Inca city (SVI to SIX) where 20,000 people lived and was more extensive than Machu Picchu, and Andahuaylillas is a small town where there is a Church built on an Inca wayra (ceremonial center), with Roman murals, a baroque altar, and Arab roofs.

Trekkings

Travel from Cusco: Huchuy Qosqo (1 day; you have to get to Lamay and from there walk for 20min + 3hs up), Choquequirao (4 days minimum; I know you can camp in the complex Archaeological), Apu Pachatusan, Ausangante. Find out

MACHU PICCHU AND HOT WATERS

Machu Picchu has several versions of what it was: the residence of the rest of Pachacútec, an aristocratic fortress, a university, and a ceremonial sanctuary. I think they still do not agree. Machu Picchu remained hidden until 1911 because it was suddenly abandoned, and the jungle covered it. It does say that the Incas destroyed the access roads (besides being places only for the upper castes, only a select group knew the site existed). In 1983, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The best thing for me is to arrive the day before Aguas Calientes and take advantage of the whole day (especially if you climb Wayna Picchu or Mountain Macchu Picchu). More people are there at noon, so it’s good to stop for a while and have lunch (and keep taking photos and getting to know the place in the afternoon, when not all tours fill the site).

To sleep in Aguas Calientes, there are options for all: camping near the entrance to the ruins (15 soles for the tent), staying in hostels (with my mom, we paid 50 soles for a private room with a private bathroom between the two), or at five-star hotels.

ROUTES: HOW TO GET TO MACHU PICCHU

– Inca Trail: It is one of the most famous trekkings in the world, and do not tire of putting it on the list of “10 things to do before you die”, “10 trekkings you must do,”  and “10 best trekkings in the world”, and that kind of ranking. Several years ago, the government of Peru realized that road deterioration, reduced traffic, and higher tolls could improve the situation and generate more revenue. Today, there is room for 500 people per day (including guides and porters), so you must book in advance (2 to 6 months, depending on the season). And it lasts four days. Remember that from November to March it rains a lot, and in February they close it for maintenance (it is also the month with the most rain).

Train: The most economical (with more options) is the Expedition from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes, with Peru Rail. The cheapest ticket, departing on the first-morning train (5:30 am) and returning on the day’s last train (9:30 pm), costs 90 USD. There are frequent departures during the day. Inca Rail also goes.

Alternative route: There is a much cheaper route than any of the above, known as the hydroelectric road. It makes the Cusco-Santa María-Santa Teresa-Hidroeléctrica section in different vehicles and then to Aguas Calientes. The trip is long, so it is advisable to leave Cusco early (at 5 am) to arrive in Aguas Calientes late. Ideally, three days are needed (one out, one in Machu Picchu, and one back). You can also get to Santa Maria from Ollantaytambo (ask next to the market, where the minibusses leave)

From Cusco, buses leave from the Quillabamba terminal. The first stretch (Cusco-Santa Maria) takes about 4-5 hours and costs 15 soles. Once in Santa Maria, only vans and taxis depart to Santa Teresa for ten soles (40 minutes). Once there, shared taxis next to the market go to the hydroelectric for five soles. Following the train’s tracks, the walk begins, which lasts about 2-3 hours. As you can see, getting to Aguas Calientes takes all day between trips, transfers, and waiting.

Some buses go directly from Cusco between S/70 and S/90. You have to haggle; around Plaza de Armas, several agencies sell them. The theme with this direct bus is that you have to go and return on the same day, which forces you to leave Cusco at 3 am and 3 pm and be back in the hydroelectric to take the bus back. I think it is too fast for a place that deserves its time.

Necessary: Carry only the essentials (leave the rest at the hostel in Cusco).

Alternative route II: From Ollantaytambo, take another bus that drops you at K. From there, it is about 30 km of walking (approximately 8 hours) along the train tracks to Aguas Calientes. You can take the alternative route I, which only takes 2-3 hours to Hidroeléctrica.

ENTRY TO MACHU PICCHU

The entrance is bought in Cusco, at Av. De la Cultura 238, Office. Suppose you are only going to visit Machu Picchu. In that case, you can buy it at the last moment, but if you want to climb one of the other mountains (Wayna Picchu or Machu Picchu Mountain), at least a week before they have to buy it (I tried to buy Wayna Picchu for the 11 am shift, and it was already full a week before). You can also buy online; there are several sites.

You have to pay to enter both Wayna Picchu (the high and pointed mountain seen in the famous photo of Machu Picchu) and Mountain Machu Picchu (facing Wayna Picchu). There are two shifts (7 a.m. and 10 a.m.), each for 200 people. You can only climb one of the two mountains. It takes 1-1 1/2 hours to climb Wayna Picchu and 2 hours to climb Machu Picchu Mountain (less steep but longer on the way up).

IMPORTANT 1: The entrance to Machu Picchu lasts only ONE DAY. Therefore, if visitors want to stay for two days, they must buy two tickets. It does forbid camping in ruins.

HOW TO UPLOAD MACHU PICCHU

Machu Picchu is open from 6 a.m. to 5.30 p.m. You must show the document ticket and, if applicable, the student card. You can enter and exit (for example, the bathrooms are outside, S/1) by showing the entrance ticket.

You can take the bus (9.5 USD, 20 minutes) or walk up the stairs (2:30 pm). The bus ticket is bought at the ticket office or at several places in Cusco. The first bus leaves at 5:30 am. If you want to get there, queue at 4:30 am. It fills up (anyway, there are no significant differences if one arrives on the first or fifth bus). The same: bus (another 9,5 USD, 20min) or by the pedestrian path (1 30h, free); the climb is hard, long, and steep, so consider this (and your age and physical condition) before doing so (significantly if you will climb the Wayna Picchu afterward).

As you can imagine, eating at Machu Picchu is very expensive. A sandwich costs 24 soles, a little water costs eight soles, and a cookie costs eight soles. Take sandwiches, cookies, fruits, nuts, and lots of water. You cannot eat in the ruins (outside before the entrance; you can enter without problems).