Information for Cusco, Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu
CUSCO
UNESCO declared it a Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 1983. It is the oldest inhabited city on the continent, so to say that there is much to see and do is not random. It is a city full of history and the point of starting to enter one of the most prominent pre-Columbian cultures. I loved it.
WHAT TO SEE IN CUSCO
Cusco is a city for walking and walking a bit more. To me, what I liked the most was:
- * Plaza de Armas and surroundings: in Inca times, it was called Huacaypata (a meeting place in Quechua). It was where Francisco Pizarro proclaimed the conquest of Cusco and where they executed Tupac Amaru II. The opposite is the Cathedral, which was built on the palace of the Inca Wiracocha. Inside are paintings of the Cusco school (one especially stands out: “The Last Supper,” Peruvian version: with a cuy) and the Cristo mestiza version: brown and an Indigenous skirt. You can enter free during Mass, from 6 to 9 am (then costs S / 25). There is also the Church of the Company of Jesus, built in 1571 on the palace of the Inca Huayna Capac.
On Av del Sol, a plaque on the floor shows the divisions of the Inca empire’s four suyos (provinces)
* San Blas: it is a bohemian neighborhood and artisan; you can find everything, but it is much quieter than the center, with cobbled streets, narrow and steep, and lovely views of the city (from the square or some bars, for example) An air more. Bohemian =)
* San Cristobal: It is a church (which implies it is upon a hill from Plaza de Armas), but the view from there is beautiful, especially at sunset when the sky turns blue and the little lights begin to catch.
* Central Market San Pedro: If they come from Bolivia or already know what the markets are, not so much attention, but I have a fascination for them, so I have gone to a thousand. Here, you can try typical dishes, buy food, and see Andean products to purchase souvenirs.
* Qoricancha: It was the temple to the sun, and the chronicles tell that its walls were covered with gold sheets. In 1534, the church and the Dominican convent were built. Price: S / 10 adults, S / 5 students (S / 15 and S / 7 if you also visit the Convent of Santa Catalina, an area where the best women lived in the Inca era).
* Saqsaywaman, Q’enqo, Puca Pucara, and Tambomachay (city tour): tourism agencies sell them to these four (along with Koricancha, optional entry) in the same package, called city tour, for S / 25. Saqsaywamán was a temple dedicated to Andean cosmology. Every June 24 is when the Inti Raymi, or Festival of the Sun, is celebrated (quite a tourist of passage). The size of its stones is enormous, and I think it was the place that made me think about how these people worked. Q’enqo, on the other hand, was a place of sacrifice; Puca Pucara was an administrative and customs center, while Tambomachay was a place of gathering, sheltering, and bathing. To take this tour alone, take a bus or minibus to Pisaq and ask to be dropped off at Tambomachay. From there, it is 11km downhill back to Cusco. But Saqsaywaman is the only one worth it, and it is easy to get from Plaza de Armas (in 20 minutes).
At the beginning of the century, Martin Chambi, one of the best Peruvian photographers, portrayed Cusco.
PRICES
The change, on 10/18, is at 1 USD = 3.25 soles (S /). Many places accept debit cards.
* Accommodation
- Dorm, from S / 10 the bed (you have to look for, there are many prices)
- Double with private bathroom: in a hotel, 40USD
- CouchSurfing works, although it is not as easy as on other sides.
* Food
In the local markets and restaurants, you can get lunch for S / 3 or 4 (be it chicken, meat, or fish). The tourist menus are around S / 15, although there are S / 8 and S / 25 (with entrance, second, dessert, and drink).
Some top-rated foods on these sides are the chicharrón (fried pork), the dry meat or chicken, the cuy baked, the alpaca in different forms, the potatoes, the huancahína (a sauce based on cheese, cookies, and chili), The chili pepper, the stuffed rocoto (a hot pepper stuffed with vegetables, fried), the cause and some others, etc. Many vegetarian (and vegan) places have good food and reasonable prices.
TOURIST TICKET
The tourist ticket is for access to several museums and archaeological sites in Cusco and its surroundings. The issue is that if you buy it whole, it lasts ten days, while the circuits last only 1 or 2 days each. If one wants to do things independently, It does not give the time (for example, the circuit ticket of the Sacred Valley has a validity of 2 days, but for example, I made one city per day, not correlatives, so after all, you almost have to buy it whole). For more information, you can check their page. It does buy at Cosituc (Av. Del Sol 103) or archaeological sites.
There are places, such as Chinchero and Moray, that, although marked on the ticket, I was not asked about.
IMPORTANT: MORE DATA
* The height! Cusco is at 3400msnm, so it is very likely to suffer altitude sickness when arriving from a low place. In addition, being a city full of ups and downs, it costs to acclimatize even if you are in good physical condition. Usually, it takes 1 or 2 days to get used to the height, and it is advisable to eat light, avoid alcohol, and drink plenty of water. I never needed them, but they say that the sorochi pill (for altitude sickness) is very effective. They are obtained at any pharmacy by S / 18 or 19. The coca mate (i.e., tea) also helps with headaches and tummy, which can give height.
* Climate (or when to go): Cusco is cold and dry, the same as before. In the rainy season, the weather goes crazy, and it can happen from dawn to rain, to get out of the sun and back to cloud over at night. February is the rainiest month (so much so that they closed the Inca Trail). The cold is intense from May to August (high season), even with frost at night, but the days are heavenly. It is best to dress in layers (t-shirt, diver, and windbreaker) since it is generally warmer at noon, and at night, it always refreshes (even for polar in summer).
SURROUNDINGS OF CUSCO: Sacred Valley
* Pisaq: It is a beautiful town, with narrow streets and motorbikes circulating, juggling not to get into the middle channel of each road. It is well known for its market, which is more memorable on Sundays. However, it adds charm to the square and covers the whole view. On Sundays, a mass is also held in Quechua at 11 a.m.
* Chinchero: Its market is much more authentic than Pisaq’s. People sell on the floor, the galleries cover the roofs, and women wear traditional costumes and weave their yarn; it is much more formal and local. People buy fruits and vegetables, and there are few tourists. Further up, a church of Tupac Inca Yupanqui’s real estate remains.
* Urubamba: I think the town with less charm has much more city-style and little Inca structure.
* Ollantaytambo: A place that you will love. The only Inca town preserved almost int to walk its alleyways without the sidewalk to see their houses still inhabited. The morning light sticking among the cobblestones is beautiful—the most frequent and cheap trains (because they are still expensive) to Aguas Calientes. There is an archaeological zone on the mountainside, with a cultivation area, religious area, administrative part, and military.
Take a minibus in Pavitos or Grau (Cusco). The ticket price varies according to the vehicle and the destination (between S / 4 and S / 10, 40min).
* Maras and Moray: Moray was an area of agricultural experimentation where four concentric terraces can be observed. In the salt pans of Maras, more than 400 wells extract salt from Inca times.
South Valley
This tour touts Tipón, Pikallacta, and Andahuaylillas. Each one corresponds to a different period: Tipón is a center of Inca hydraulic experimentation, Pikillacta is a pre-Inca city (SVI to SIX) where 20,000 people lived and were more extensive than Machu Picchu, and Andahuaylillas is a small town where there is a Church built on an Inca wayra (ceremonial center), with Roman murals, baroque altar and Arab roofs.
Trekkings
Travel from Cusco: Huchuy Qosqo (1 day, you have to get to Lamay and from there walk, 20min + 3hs up), Choquequirao (4 days minimum, I know you can camp in the complex Archaeological), Apu Pachatusan, Ausangante. Find out
MACHU PICCHU AND HOT WATERS
Machu Picchu has several versions of what it was: the residence of the rest of Pachacútec, an aristocratic fortress, a university, and a ceremonial sanctuary. I think they still do not agree. Machu Picchu remained hidden until 1911 because it was suddenly abandoned, and the jungle covered it. It does say that the Incas destroyed the access roads (besides being a place only for the upper castes, only a select group knew The existence of the site). In 1983, it was declared Natural and Cultural Patrimony of Humanity by UNESCO.
The best thing for me is to arrive the day before Aguas Calientes and take advantage of the whole day (especially if you climb Wayna Picchu or Mountain Macchu Picchu). More people are there at noon, so it’s good to stop for a while and have lunch (and keep taking photos and knowing the place in the afternoon when not all tours fill the site).
To sleep in Aguas Calientes: there are options for all: camping near the entrance to the ruins (15 soles for the tent), through hostels (with my mom, we paid 50 soles for a private room with a private) bathroom between the two), to hotels with five stars.
ROUTES: HOW TO GET TO MACHU PICCHU
– Inca Trail: It is one of the most famous trekkings in the world, and do not tire of putting it on the list of “10 things to do before you die”, “10 trekkings you must do,” and “10 best trekkings in the world” and that kind of raking. Several years ago, the government of Peru realized the road deterioration and that reducing the number of people per day and increasing the price of the route could improve the way and obtain more profits. Today, there is room for 500 people daily (including guides and porters), so you must book in advance (from 2 to 6 months, depending on whether it is a low or high season). And it lasts four days. Remember that from November to March, it rains a lot, and in February, they close it for maintenance (in addition, it is the month of more rain).
Train: The most economical (with more options) is the Expedition from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes, with Peru Rail. The cheapest ticket, departing on the first-morning train (5:30 am) and returning on the day’s last day (9:30 pm), costs 90 USD. There are frequent departures during the day. Inca Rail also goes.
Alternative route There is a much cheaper route than any of the above, known as the hydroelectric road. It makes the Cusco-Santa María-Santa Teresa-Hidroeléctrica section in different vehicles and then to Aguas Calientes. The trip is long, so it is advisable to leave early from Cusco (type 5 am) to arrive late at Aguas Calientes. Ideally, three days (one out, one in Machu Picchu, and one back) are needed. You can also get to Santa Maria from Ollantaytambo (ask next to the market, where the minibusses leave)
From Cusco, buses leave from the terminal Quillabamba. The first stretch (Cusco-Santa Maria) takes about 4-5 hours and costs 15 soles. Once in Santa Maria, only vans and taxis depart to Santa Teresa for ten soles (40 minutes). Once there, there are shared taxis next to the market that, for five soles, go to hydroelectric. Following the train’s tracks, the walk begins, which lasts about 2-3 hours. As you can see, getting to Aguas Calientes takes all day between trips, transfers, and waiting.
Some buses go directly from Cusco between S/70 and 90. You have to haggle; around Plaza de Armas, several agencies sell them. The theme with this direct bus is that you have to go and return on the same day, which forces you to leave Cusco at 3 am and 3 pm and be back in the hydroelectric to take the bus back. I think it is too fast for a place that deserves its time.
Necessary: Carry only the essentials (leave the rest at the hostel in Cusco).
Alternative route II: From Ollantaytambo, you take another bus that leaves you at K. From there, it is almost 30 km of walking (approximately 8 hours) to the side of the train tracks until arriving at Aguas Calientes. You can take alternative route I, which only takes 2-3 hours to Hidroeléctrica.
ENTRY TO MACHU PICCHU
The entrance is bought in Cusco in the Av. De la Cultura 238 Office. Suppose you are only going to visit Machu Picchu. In that case, you can buy it at the last moment, but if you want to climb one of the other mountains (Wayna Picchu or Machu Picchu Mountain), at least a week before they have to buy it (I tried to buy Wayna Picchu for the 11 am shift, and it was already full a week before). You can also buy online; there are several sites.
You have to pay to enter both Wayna Picchu (the high and pointed mountain seen in the famous photo of Machu Picchu) and Mountain Machu Picchu (facing Wayna Picchu). There are two shifts (7 a.m. and 10 a.m.), each for 200 people. You can only climb one of the two mountains. It takes 1-1 1/2 hours to climb Wayna Picchu and 2 hours to climb Machu Picchu Mountain (less steep but longer the way).
IMPORTANT 1: The entrance to Machu Picchu lasts only ONE DAY. Therefore, if visitors want to stay for two days, they must buy two tickets. It does forbid camping in ruins.
HOW TO UPLOAD MACHU PICCHU
Machu Picchu is open from 6 a.m. to 5.30 p.m. You must show the document ticket and the student card, if applicable. You can enter and exit (for example, the bathrooms are outside, S/1) by showing the entrance ticket.
You can take the bus (9.5 USD, 20 minutes) or walk up the stairs (2:30 pm) to climb. The ticket for the bus is bought in the ticket office or several places in Cusco. The first bus leaves at 5:30 am. If you want to get there, go to 4:30 am to queue. It fills up (anyway, there are no significant differences if one arrives on the first or fifth bus). The same: bus (another 9,5 USD, 20min) or by the pedestrian path (1: 30h, free); the climb is hard, long, and steep, so consider this (and your age and physical condition) before doing so (significantly if you will climb the Wayna Picchu afterward).
As you can imagine, eating at Machu Picchu is very expensive. A sandwich costs 24 soles, a little water costs eight soles, and a cookie costs eight soles. Take sandwiches, cookies, fruits, nuts, and lots of water. You cannot eat in the ruins (outside before the entrance; you can enter without problems).
